Food and Wine Magazine Says

SPICY SEAFOOD SOUP: HEAVEN’S DOG, SAN FRANCISCO

At the Slanted Door, Charles Phan became famous for his outstanding, ingredient-driven Vietnamese cooking. At the new Heaven’s Dog, he pays homage to the noodle shops of northern China with a menu full of classic dishes. His sweet-and-sour pork, which he makes with pasture-raised pigs, is exemplary, but I’m going back for Phan’s seafood soup, a searingly spicy broth packed with wheat noodles and copious amounts of wild shrimp, white bass, scallops and squid. The soup, served only at lunchtime, is a bargain at $10. The only way to improve upon it is to pair it with a cocktail from the bar, which many consider to be the best in town. —Jan Newberry